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Loading the film onto the reel must be done in the dark so it’s helpful to lay the equipment out where you can easily find it. Once on the reel you can cut it from the spool. Once done, place it inside the light proof developing tank.
Chemistry should be selected based on the brand and ISO of film you are processing. Details can usually be found on the box. You need to select an appropriate volume of fluid so it will cover all the films in your developing tank- measurements for this can usually be found at the base of the tank. Measure out your stop fluid ahead of time so it can be used immediately after the developer. Use a thermometer to make sure your developing fluid solution is at the correct temperature for your film roll (usually 20 degrees centigrade) and use warm or cold water to adjust it. As a safety measure you should wear gloves as well as washing your hands thoroughly, and ensure you carry out the development process in a well ventilated area.
Develop your film for the stated amount of time. You should tip the developing tank to displace the liquid at regular intervals. You can tap it to remove any air bubbles. It should be treated gently to prevent streaks forming on your negatives. Complete the process with stop and fix fluid, and then wash the negatives for 10 minutes. At this stage they can be exposed to light without any issues.
Once washed, use your hand or a squeegee to remove excess water, and then hang your negatives in a cabinet to dry. Place a clip on the bottom of the negatives to weigh them down so they dry straight.
My negatives came out slightly pale this time, but there is a good range of contrast on the roll itself so it doesn’t appear that there was a problem with the development. Most likely I underexposed it when taking the photographs. When printing them I could adjust the exposure time on the enlarger to compensate, and could try using a filter to increase the contrast, though I may have lost some of the image. I’ll know more once I’ve scanned them.